Here’s a Quick Guide to All the Different Parts of a Jacket
Every craft has it’s own lingo, and sewing is no exception. If you want to sew a jacket, you’ve got collar notches, a collar roll, a collar gorge, and more. Brush up on alllll the key elements (who knew there were 37 parts of jacket?!) — it’ll make things so much easier when you’re actually ready to pull out your machine and start sewing.
Disclaimer: When it comes to sewing jackets, there is a lot of variation from style to style. Your jacket might not have all these parts, or it might have elements of flair that the diagrams don’t. Still, this is a pretty thorough inventory.
The Front of the Jacket
1. Sleeve Vent and Buttons
Where one side of the sleeve overlaps the other, creating a small opening. It’s often decorated with anywhere from one to four decorative buttons. Most jackets have a mini vent in the sleeve seam at the hem.
2. Sleeve Seam
The seam along the back of the sleeve where the upper sleeve and the under sleeve are joined.
3. Sleeve Head (or Cap)
The point of the sleeve just to the other side of the shoulder seam. This is one of the key fitting points on any jacket. If you’ve ever had a jacket professionally tailored, you’ve probably discussed the sleeve head or cap at great length.
4. Collar Notch
The corner on the lower portion of the collar (the lapel); this style of collar is referred to as a “notched collar.”
5. Front Upper Collar
All collars have a front and a back, as well as an upper and an under. This part of the collar is on the top of the jacket. On top of the collar is the front upper collar.
6. Under Collar
Part of the collar that you can’t see when worn; it’s under the upper collar. Often the under collar is cut slightly smaller than the upper collar, so the seam on the collar rolls to the underside and is less visible.
7. Back Facing
The bit of fabric between the lining and the under collar.; it attaches to the front facing to finish the opening of the jacket.
8. Collar Roll
The point where the collar rolls from the upper to the under side.
9. Back Lining Pleat
Pleat at the back of the lining that allows your body to move inside the jacket without tearing the lining. It’s located at the top of the lining where it joins the back facing.
10. Collar Gorge
The seam where the lapel and the upper collar join, at the notch.
11. Back Lining
The back portion of the lining is seen inside the jacket from the front. This is attached to the remaining pieces of the lining inside the jacket.
12. Collar Lapel
The lower portion of the collar. This part of the jacket varies in width based on style and trends.
13. Break Line
The coat is buttoned in the front and “breaks” at that point, allowing the collar to roll open.
14. Jacket Front
The portion of the front from the shoulder or yoke to the hem, closest to the collar and front opening. Sometimes there is a dart in this piece for shaping.
15. Jacket Side Front
The section between the jacket front and the side seam.
16. Pocket Flap
Most jackets have a pocket of some sort around this point of the body, and many have a flap on the pocket, either on top of the pocket that is hiding underneath, or just under a pocket opening.
17. Front Buttons
To close up the jacket, buttons are at the center front. Jackets like this typically have one to four buttons, depending on the styling. Double-breasted jackets have twice as many for the overlap.
18. Jacket Center Front
The center line of the jacket, down the front of the garment.
19. Side Seam
The point where the side front and the side back pieces join. This seam goes from under the arm to the hem.
20. Sleeve Front
The portion of the sleeve that faces out on the front of the jacket.
21. Welt Pocket
In conjunction with the pocket flap, there will likely be a welt pocket, either hiding under the flap, or just above the flap.
22. Side Front Seam
The jacket front and the jacket side front are joined at the side front seam, which is often a curved seam for fitting.
23. Chest Pocket
Some jackets have a simple welt pocket at the chest. This is where a pocket square would be placed, if using one.
24. Yoke Front
Not all jackets will have a yoke, but if there is one, it spans the back over the shoulder to the front. The part of the yoke that’s on the front side of the shoulder is the yoke front.
The Back of the Jacket
25. Upper Sleeve
Most jackets have a sleeve made up of more than one single piece. The top portion is the upper sleeve.
26. Under Sleeve
The lower part of the multi-pieced sleeve.
The curved opening that goes around the arm (from over the shoulder to under the arm pit); it is pronounced arm-sigh.
The shoulder, along with the armscye and sleeve head, is another major point of fitting in any jacket. It is the seam that runs from the sleeve to the neck.
29. Back Upper Collar
The top portion of the back side of the collar.
30. Yoke Back
If your jacket has a yoke, the portion on the back of the jacket is the yoke back.
31. Center Back Seam
Most coats have a seam that runs from the neckline to the hem down the middle of the coat. This is the center back seam.
32. Side Back Seam
The seam where the jacket back and jacket side back are joined. This seam is often curved for quality fitting, much like the side front seam.
33. Jacket Side Back
The jacket side back is the section of fabric that connects the jacket back to the jacket side front.
34. Jacket Back
The section of fabric between the side back seam and the center back seam.
35. Back Vent
Most coats have a back vent to allow for movement. Often the vent is placed at the bottom of the center back seam. Sometimes it’s a pair of pleats on either side of the center back, sewn into the side back seams.
36. Jacket Hem
The bottom of the jacket, all the way around the entire jacket.
37. Sleeve Hem
The bottom of the sleeve, around your wrist area.
This is a lot of information to absorb, so take some time learning it. Then go forth and sew!